Through Hobbit land and the Misty Mountains to the Höllentalangerhütte.

A lively stream in autumn

Pure Hobbit land: The Hammersbach down in the valley

In October I went on a flurry of hikes in an attempt to compensate for the hiking I missed in the summer. The one hike a week rhythm made it difficult to keep up with on the blog though. I’ve only now managed to write-up the first hike in Garmisch. We walked up through a misty forest and the tunnels of the Höllental to the Höllentalangerhütte (1,379 m). The weather was a bit grim, but at least it made for a moody, Tolkien-esque landscape.

At first we were actually not even meant to hike in Garmisch. When we left Munich in the morning we were heading to Schloß Linderhof from where we wanted to hike up to Teufelstättkopf.

However, after about a half an hour of navigating through the castle’s park we found out that our trail was closed due to stone fall.

Since this was not working, we decided to drive to Garmisch and do the relatively short hike through the Höllentalklamm. At 12:30 we were finally hiking! We this time round meant Constantin, Diana and I. Diana has not only proved to be a budding hiker, but also a budding filmmaker.

The trail starts at Hammersbach (a village just outside of Garmisch-Partenkirchen; 758 m) and after an hour of a gradual ascend through a forest reaches the entrance of the Höllentalklamm.

The gorge cut out by the Hammersbach is very narrow. It was also very wet, with water in places running down the rock above the footpath in small streams. The path leads through tunnels built for the servicing of an old power station that used to be in the gorge. As we were making our way through the wet tunnels of the fog filled gorge, I had to think of Bilbo Baggins stumbling across Golum in his cave. We didn’t find any rings though.

The hike through the gorge takes about half an hour (depending on how many photos you take). After that it is another half an hour to the Höllentalangerhütte.

After several years of construction the new hut at the plateau underneath the Zugspitze opened this summer. At first I was a bit disappointed with the modern design (from the outside it doesn’t look anything like a mountain hut). But it is actually very clever, designed in a way to survive, if it was hit by an avalanche, which the location seems to be at a high risk of. Inside, it is fairly traditional, the hipster lamp shades aside.

We had an amazing Keiserschmarn at the hut and caught a very short glimpse of the Zugspitze when we arrived. A huge white cloud quickly pulled up from the valley though and ended the views for the day.

We returned the same way we ascended, getting an opportunity to enjoy some more impressive autumn colours. We were back at the car at 6pm just as it started to get dark.

Trip summary

Start/ end: Parking lot in Obergrainau

Ascent/ descent: 690 m each way

Walking time: 4 hrs

Travel from Munich: Train to Garmisch and then the “Zugspitzbahn” to Hammersbach (1.5 hrs) ; Car (1hr 15 mins)

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  1. Great post! I’ve wanted to get to that Klamm for quite awhile, but haven’t managed it yet. Interested to see the new Höllentalangerhütte as well, especially after reading about it in the DAV magazine recently. The boyfriend was a big fan of the old one, so we’ll have to see how the new one stacks up. 🙂

    1. Hi Heather! Thanks for stopping by. I really enjoyed reading your blog too. I think the old hut was a bit of a legend in the region. There is a picture of it at the new hut. It looked very cute and cosy. The new one just looks extremely modern. Unfortunately I failed to take any photos of it. The hike up there is definitely worth it and can also be extended further beyond the hut. marketa

      1. Looking forward to following along! There aren’t too many blogs that talk about hiking around Germany in English (at least, not that I’ve found!) so this looks to be very useful. 🙂 We’re putting that one on the calendar for this year… my guy hasn’t been up there since he hiked to the Zugspitze, so it’s been awhile. 🙂 h.

  2. Lovely scenery, and such cosy-looking accommodation!

    1. I really liked that about the hike. Although the weather wasn’t good, it made everything look very different and slightly mysterious.

  3. Enjoyed reading this post! 🙂
    Out here when we hike we have to choose short treks because the Sun becomes too strong after 9.30-10 AM

    1. Hi Arv. Thanks. Wow, that’s a completely different way of planning hikes.

      1. We are constrained by weather, out here only few days in a year Sun is mild enough to engage in full day hikes. In summers, it get very hot to hike even at 7-7.30 AM! Typically we have 6 months of summer, 3 months winter and rest three are mild weather months!

  4. aquavista · · Reply

    Sensational looking Kaiserschmarn! 😋

    1. Oh yes. And it tasted even better than it looked 🙂

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